Buying a Cat Advise

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Deciding to get a cat?

When it comes to deciding what kind of kitten to get, it is your choice whether to find a pedigree cat or moggy (mixed-bred or non-pedigree). While many pedigree cats are healthy, there is a misconception that they are somehow better or stronger than moggies.

Buying a pedigree cat isn’t a guarantee of good health and behaviour. Pedigree simply means the cat has been bred from a family which meets certain criteria –usually in relation to the cat’s appearance. They have rarely been selected for specific health or temperament benefits. If selecting a pedigree cat, we strongly recommend that you take time to research different breeds and requirements.

You must be able to offer the cat the essential 5 welfare needs

Your kitten or cat will need to live in an environment that doesn’t endanger its health or welfare. The kitten or cat will also need access to shelter protected from the cold in winter,extreme heat in summer and the space to exercise and explore.

Including enough appropriate food and suitable drinking water.

kitten or cat need the ability to explore, play, have mental stimulation, run, they need items to claw, climb, or exercise, basically do what cats like to do natuaraly.

Cats are naturally solitary animals, which means they usually prefer to live alone. If one of your cats has recently died hold off getting another as a “friend”, at least until your existing cat has adjusted, as it may be happier by itself. If you do decide to introduce a new cat to another seek advice from a vet or animal welfare charity on how to do it gradually in a way that minimises the risks of either cat(s) suffering from stress/stress related illness. Some cats love the attention of thier human companions and that is just enough for them.

To ensure that your cat is up to date on vaccines, regular check ups with the vet and If your pet becomes sick or injured, you are required to seek vet treatment. It is also vital that as a pet owner, you ensure your cat is properly socialised so it is protected from situations that will cause intense anxiety or fear. As this can incease the stress levels and start to cause health issues.

10 steps to buying a Kitten

Kittens are cute – but they do take time and commitment, so before starting the process of buying a kitten, it’s important to take the time to consider whether it’s the right choice for both you and the kitten.  Sit down and think through all the implications first as a kitten is a life-changing commitment and a kitten should never be bought on impulse.

The five welfare needs

The Five Welfare Needs are set out in the Animal Welfare Act to ensure that animals have their basic needs fulfilled by those who care for them.

As a cat owner you have a legal responsibility to ensure the welfare needs of your pet are met at each life stage, bearing in mind that these needs may change as they get older.

1. The need for a suitable environment

  • A comfortable place to rest and somewhere to be separate from others
  • Space to exercise and explore


2. The need for a suitable diet

  • Appropriate diet for the cat’s life stage
  • Feeding the right amount to prevent obesity or malnourishment
  • Access to fresh clean water
  • Avoiding food that may be poisonous or harmful

(Seek advice from your local vet on specific dietary needs)

3. The need to exhibit natural behaviour

  • Exploring outside the house
  • Play and mental stimulation
  • claw / climb / etc
  • A scratching post
  • Litter box

4. The need to be housed with or apart from other animals

  • To be housed with or apart from other cats and people according to the cat’s needs
  • The chance to interact with other cats and people as appropriate

5. The need to be protected from pain, suffering, injury and disease

  • Access to veterinary treatment if they become ill or injured
  • Mental well-being: appropriate socialisation and training and protection from situations that may cause prolonged anxiety or fear

(Register with a vet to ensure health needs are met, i.e. worming, vaccines, health checks)

Taking on a cat is a long-term commitment. In addition to the initial costs of buying or rehoming a dog you also need to consider the following:

  • Vaccinations (including annual boosters)
  • Veterinary care (expected and unexpected)
  • Scratch posts and training aids
  • Worming and flea control
  • Neutering
  • Toys
  • Bedding
  • Food
  • Collar
  • Ensuring your house and garden are suitably safe and enclosed
  • Crates for travelling in the car
  • Sand for the litterbox
  • Care for when you’re away
  • Pet sitter

These are just some of the costs – there may be more.

Whilst you may have a favourite type of cat, it’s important to consider which breed is best suited to your situation and whether you can meet its specific needs.

Do lots of research into the different types of cats that you are interested in. Some veterinary practices offer pre-purchase consultations and are a good source of information. They will have experience of different breeds and will usually be willing to discuss which type of cat is best suited to your lifestyle. You could also speak to people who own the breed you are interested in, to get an idea of what to expect before making a decision. Breed clubs or local vets may be able to help you with this.

Should I get a cat or kitten?


It can be difficult to resist getting a kitten. While they are cute to look at and full of energy, they also demand a lot of time and patience from their owners. There is no indication of what your kitten will be like when they become an adult too, as cats don’t tend to form an established character until they’re at least a year old. If your household is more suited to a more laid-back character, it is best to choose an adult cat.


Adult cats are usually more settled and less likely to get up to mischief than kittens. Some of them will even be keen to cuddle up on the sofa or lounge around at your feet. By the time a cat is grown, their personality is well established.

You may even be able to find out from their previous owner about their food intake, litter tray habits and character, making it easier for them to settle into their new home.

Mature moggies, or cats that are older than seven years old, are ideal for quieter households. While older cats aren’t always the first choice of potential adopters, they’re well worth considering as a pet. They are likely to be quieter throughout the day, sleep through the night and less likely to wander from home.


All cats have differing personalities, in the same way that humans do. Some are content to be handled, making them the perfect pet for children or older people. Others will shy away from attention, only interacting when they choose to. Consider whether you’d like an energetic or playful cat, or whether you’d be more compatible with a cat that spends its time curled up asleep!

When visiting our branches and centres, you’ll get a good idea of what each cat is like from their descriptions, or by talking to some of the volunteers and staff that look after them.

How can I choose a cat that is right for my family?

Do you have children at home, or even other pets? Choosing a cat that will settle into family life is vital.

Can I get a cat if I have children?

Cats and kids can become great companions as they grow and having a pet can be of great benefit to little ones. However, you’ll need to bear in mind a cat’s previous experiences and personality as well as ultimately what you are looking for in a pet.

While children might be enthusiastic about homing a cute kitten, kittens need plenty of care and attention as well as regular supervision. Adult cats can be less frenetic, which suits many families. Teaching children basic cat care as well as how to treat them carefully is a great idea and encourages a sense of responsibility too.

Cats are generally good with babies, choosing to either become friendly with them or stay well out of their way. If you’re expecting a new arrival and you’re worried about choosing a cat, there are plenty of things you can do to help them settle in.

Getting a cat if you have other pets

If you have other pets in your home, think carefully about whether they are likely to get on with a new cat. Consider your animal’s age, personality and previous experiences.

Getting another cat

Cats are solitary creatures, meaning they tend to want to live alone and don’t need ‘friends’. Some cats can tolerate other cats when they come into the home – others will find it impossible! Consider your existing cat’s behaviour and how they will react – introducing a kitten into the household might be easier than introducing another adult cat into their territory.

Cats and dogs living together

Don’t believe the age-old stereotype about warring species – some cats and dogs can live together in harmony. Think about your dog’s personality and behaviour towards felines. Have they come across a cat on their walks and reacted negatively? Do they get along with cats in the neighbourhood? As long as they don’t react aggressively towards cats, they should be able to share their home with a little guidance.

Introducing your new cat to your dog is the most important thing you can do, and shouldn’t be rushed. First impressions count, and it is easier to arrange a gradual introduction than repair a damaged relationship between your cat and dog.

Is my home the right place for a cat?

While cats really do make a house a home, you’ll need to think about the right pet for where you live. Cats that love to venture outdoors are ideal for those with gardens, while those with limited space might like to consider an indoor cat or a cat with specialised needs. Blind cats or those with Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) need to stay indoors and usually only need specialised diets or medication as well as plenty of love.

Indoor cats can be perfect pets for older people or those in search of a quieter feline companion, without worrying about them wandering from home.

At this stage it is important to carefully consider where to get your puppy from.

Direct from the breeder

If you are concerned by any of the information provided in the contract or the environment you view the kittens in – either reorganise the purchase of your kitten to give you time to ask your vet about your concerns or be prepared to walk away from the purchase.

Do your research into the breeder. If you choose to buy a kitten from a breeder, you’ll need to be sure that the kitten is well looked after and in good condition. Cats shouldn’t be removed from their mothers until around eight to nine weeks, and should appear bright, engaged and sociable.  A responsible breeder should have extensive knowledge on their particular breed.  They will be happy to discuss how the kittens are kept and any health checks that have been conducted (on the kitten and its parents). The breeder should also ask you questions about your experience and suitability for owning a cat.

All responsible breeders should invite you to visit them and meet the parents and kittens before committing to buy. This is a good time to ask the breeder whether they use a contract.

Rehoming charities

Many rehoming centres often have kittens as well as adult cats available for rehoming. There are many reasons for getting your cat from a rehoming charity.  A good rehoming centre will check your suitability first and usually use an adoption contract. They will help you choose the right cat for you and give you advice on caring for your new pet.

Never buy a kitten from a kitten farm (a place where kittens are bred for sale in large numbers) or directly from an advertisement where you meet the breeder to collect the kitten from somewhere other than where the kitten was born (for example a motorway service station or carpark). Some unscrupulous breeders may even offer to deliver the kitten to your house, which is not recommended.

Always call a breeder first and try to visit before the kittens are born. When you see a litter of cute kittens in front of you it’s easy to let your emotions take over and forget all the questions you had ready and it can be difficult to say “no” to a kitten which may in reality be unsuitable for you or from a kitten farm. It’s helpful to write your questions down before calling or visiting a breeder.

As mentioned, a responsible breeder should be happy to answer any of your questions for you.  Some questions you may want to ask the breeder include:

Where are the kittens kept? For example is this inside the house in a busy kitchen where there is lots of interaction with the kittens?

Before you visit the kitten

If you’ve found a breeder and are communicating with them over email or phone, think of some key questions to ask before you visit. It can be hard to resist an adorable kitten when you see them. Find out as much as you can before visiting and you’ll have chance to think about it if you have any concerns. Consider the following:

  • when was the kitten born?
  • will you be able to see the kitten with its mother?
  • was the kitten raised with its mother?
  • where was the kitten born, and where did the kitten spend most of its time when it was between two and nine weeks old?
  • does the kitten have brothers or sisters – and does it interact with them?
  • is anything known about the father of the kitten?
  • is the kitten friendly?
  • is the kitten a specific breed?
  • has the kitten interacted positively with a dog or dogs?

Ensuring the kitten has been socialised

Ensuring that a kitten has been appropriately ‘socialised’ is important when looking for kittens for sale. Kitten socialisation happens between two and nine weeks old and helps in preparing them to cope with the human world. At this point in time, a kitten’s brain and sensory system are still developing. There are a number of key things that your kitten should be gradually exposed to during this time. They should experience:

  • different people (at least four, ideally including a male, female and child)
  • handling (including handling by a vet, looking in their ears and handling their paws)
  • sounds
  • litter trays and types of litter
  • different types of toys

If you’re keen on buying a cat, we strongly recommend that you do so from a reputable breeder or seller. Before a kitten is rehomed they should stay with their mother until they are eight to nine weeks old. It is important that the kitten appears alert, sociable and with no other visible health problems. If you’re buying a cat or kitten, here are a few things to consider:

  • have you seen where the kitten lives and check it is well cared for?
  • have the kittens in the litter been checked over by a vet? If so, you should be given details
  • has the kitten been wormed or vaccinated? There should be documentation of this
  • have you seen the mother of the kitten? Is the mother a healthy cat? Are there any hereditary illnesses or diseases? It is important to know the kitten’s history before you buy
  • where have the kittens been kept? Keeping kittens in a busy environment will allow them to be socialised and feel safer around people once they are adults

A responsible breeder will want to know that their kittens are going to a good home, so be prepared to answer questions about your lifestyle, home environment and experience with cats. If the breeder doesnt ask or doesnt care then you should understand he is just using the kittens to make money, beware and possibly back out and walk away.

Never agree to meet the breeder halfway or arrange for the kitten to be delivered to you – always make sure you visit the kitten more than once in the place where it was bred. This will enable you to picture the type of environment the kitten has already encountered, compare this to your own home environment and prepare appropriate socialisation accordingly.

Look at where the kitten lives

Take a P.A.W.S

Once you make a visit to your potential kitten in its home, use the kitten checklist to guide you on things to look out for. You could consider questions such as:

  • can you see the kitten with its mother?
  • is the mother healthy and friendly?
  • are there any other cats and kittens in the home?
  • what is the kitten’s environment like? Is it clean?
  • does the kitten look healthy?
  • is the kitten friendly or was it nervous or fearful?

Try to match the environment to your own. For example, if you have a busy household with children, it is better to look for a kitten from a similar environment. Look for evidence that the place you are viewing the kitten is where it has been reared, such as the presence of a food bowls and bedding.  Some breeders may change environments for viewing, especially if they’ve been reared outdoors.

Meet the parents

It is essential to meet the mother and the siblings and, if possible, the father. If it is not possible to see the father – ask if you can to speak to the owner of the father. Ask lots of questions about the mother’s health, background and personality. As well as inheriting aspects of their parents’ personality, kittens also learn from their mother during the early weeks of life and if she is wary of strangers, they may learn the same response. Ideally the mother should greet you in a calm, friendly manner.

Unscrupulous vendors may try to pass off another cat as the kitten’s mother, so check for signs that she has recently given birth such as enlarged/very noticeable mammary glands.

Check the kittens health

Regardless of whether you are getting your kitten from a breeder or a rehoming centre, you should always check they are healthy before committing to buy.

  • Before you take your new kitten home, ask the breeder if they have been vaccinated, neutered and microchipped. The kitten will need to be treated for worms and fleas. If this isn’t the case, you’ll need to ensure you do this yourself.

If you have any concerns whatsoever – consult a vet prior to committing to take the kitten.

Where vaccinations have been claimed by the breeder, ask to see the records of these.

  • health checked
  • wormed
  • vaccinated against cat flu and enteritis
  • neutered, where appropriate
  • Vaccination records should be stamped by the veterinary practice and signed by a veterinary surgeon.


When faced with a bundle of cute kittens it can be difficult to choose between them. Assessing the temperament of a kitten is something that even experts find difficult.

However, you should try to select a kitten that fits with your lifestyle, abilities, experience and expectations. Sit down amongst the kittens and observe their reaction to you.  Each kitten in a litter will have a different ‘personality’. These differences may be small but will have an impact on their behaviour as an adult.

Here are some things that you can look out for:

  • Experience during the very early weeks of life has a huge influence on your kittens behaviour as an adult. Seeing the kittens home will help you to tell whether the breeder’s interpretation of ‘wide experience’ is accurate. Has the kittens encountered loud noises, other cats, dogs or unfamiliar visitors?
  • Some kittens may be nervous and fearful or reluctant to interact.  A kittens that doesn’t approach you freely, particularly if it shows signs of anxiety such as cowering or backing away, will need careful socialisation and desensitisation.

As a general rule, a curious and confident kitten will be more suited to an inexperienced owner.  More subdued kittens need a lot more time, attention and careful socialisation.

Don’t base your decision on looks alone. If you purchase a well socialised, healthy kitten from a responsible source, you are far more likely to have a healthy, happy and long-lived companion.

Don’t buy a kitten on the first visit – if possible leave your wallet at home when you first go to visit the kittens so you’re not tempted to make an impulse purchase. If you can walk in and buy a kitten the same day, walk away.  It’s always a good idea to spend some time considering your choice, talking to friends and family members and weighing up all the information before making the big commitment. If you are unsure about any of the information you’ve been given – ask a vet or vet nuTake a P.A.W.Srse for advice.

Visit more than once. Spend plenty of time with all the kittens – you won’t be able to accurately make an assessment in 5 minutes. On the second visit ask if you can take the kitten to a different part of the house to see how it responds. If you have children in your household – the second visit is a perfect opportunity to see how the kitten reacts to them and vice versa.

Ask the breeder to provide you with a completed kitten Contract so that you have time to review it and seek a vet’s advice if necessary, before committing to purchase.

Don’t be tempted to purchase a kitten (or any other animal) because you feel sorry for it.

Preparing for your kitten

Once you have visited your kitten and make the decision to buy, it’s time to get your home set up for your pet. Make sure you leave enough time to make preparations, as well as to go shopping for pet essentials. Provide your cat with a quiet, comfortable space for them to get settled. It could be a spare bedroom or space in the house – anywhere that they can familiarise themselves with their surroundings before exploring the rest of their environment.

Ask the breeder about the food and litter that your kitten has been using – continuing with the same products will ensure your kitten settles in well. You can also ask for some of its bedding as the familiar smell will be reassuring, especially when travelling.

Congratulations! You’ve done your research to make sure you can meet a cat’s needs and have found a healthy kitten that is suitable for you.

If you are happy with the information given, you can now sign the kitten Contract and make your purchase.

  • Before you take your kitten home – make sure you have everything ready for them.

How to plan and prepare for your new cat

Once you’ve decided to give a cat a home, it’s time to get your home ready and prepare for a cat. You’ll need to make sure you leave enough time to make adequate preparations, as well as to go shopping for everything they need.

The most important thing your cat needs is a quiet, comfortable and secluded space of their or her own. It could be a spare bedroom or a cosy space in the corner of your living room. This will make sure your cat becomes familiar with one space before exploring the rest of your home.

Here’s a step-by-step guide on setting up a space for your new cat

  1. Make sure the space is private. Keep dogs, kids and guests out
  2. Make it safe. Remove potential hazards like cleaning products or anything that could be knocked over
  3. Provide a hiding space. A cardboard box on top of a tall piece of furniture is ideal
  4. Add your cat’s essential items. You’ll find a full list of these below
  5. Provide some fun. Puzzle toys, fishing rod toys and even cardboard boxes are excellent boredom busters

Things you’ll need for your new cat

  • One food bowl
  • One water bowl; remember to place your food and water bowl away from each other
  • Food and water
  • A soft, warm and comfortable bed put somewhere quiet and safe
  • A litter tray, kept away from your cat’s food and water area
  • Access to a high spot where they can view their surroundings. A simple cardboard box should do the trick!
  • A sturdy scratching post
  • A brush
  • Cat toys
  • A cat carrier; choose something well ventilated and sturdy

Remember: When providing beds, litter trays, scratching posts and food and water bowls, it is a good idea to provide one extra. When more than one cat is sharing the home, provide one of these items per cat plus one extra. For example, two cats should have access to at least three litter trays.

Keeping your new cat safe and healthy

Before you bring your cat home, you’ll need to think about getting them prepared for the outside world. All cats adopted from Cats Protection will have received a mandatory level of veterinary care, including:

  • a health check carried out by a veterinary surgeon
  • treatment against fleas and worms
  • at least one vaccination against cat flu and feline enteritis
  • neutering, if old enough
  • a microchip for all cats over 12 weeks of age
  • a period of pet insurance (each cat rehomed by Cats Protection will receive four weeks’ free Petplan insurance)

If you’ve adopted your cat from elsewhere, these are all things you’ll need to think about. Vaccinations, microchipping and neutering are particularly important.


Neutering is an important operation to prevent female cats from getting pregnant and male cats from making females pregnant. You will need to ensure your cat is neutered to avoid unwanted kittens. There are also plenty of health benefits, including the reduced chance of developing some cancers and other illnesses.


If your cat or kitten hasn’t been vaccinated, you’ll need to take them to a vet to receive them.

When should my cat be vaccinated?

The first vaccinations should be given to kittens around eight to nine weeks of age. Timing is important – too early and the vaccine may not work properly, too late and they may be susceptible to infection. Two vaccines are usually needed, at three to four weeks apart. Cats will need a booster vaccine to keep immunity levels high.

Check list when Buying a Cat

Please consider contacting your local animal rescue/rehoming centre

There are hundreds of loving cats and kittens all over the CYPRUS who are waiting for a forever home. By rehoming from a rescue centre you are giving an animal a second chance of a happy life.

Research before you buy or adopt

Different cats have different individual requirements, which may vary greatly depending on their age, temperament, and breed. Be sure the cat you are interested in is suitable for your lifestyle and environment.

If you decide to adopt a cat, the adoption costs can include a full veterinary and behavioural assessment, microchipping, initial vaccinations, identification tag and a starter pack of food

In most cases your cat will also have been neutered or have an appointment arranged to do so. These costs represent a significant saving on the fees you could pay should you buy a cat from elsewhere.

Avoid sellers such as pet shops and garden centres

Research before you buy

Different cats have different individual requirements, which may vary greatly depending on their age, temperament, and breed. Be sure the cat you are interested in is suitable for your lifestyle and environment.

Make sure you get a healthy cat

Always ask for a copy of its medical records, including vaccination certificate and records of worming and flea treatment. Ensure that registration papers, the parents’ hereditary disease screening certificates and microchip documentation are in order.

Buying a kitten

Ideally you should see the kitten with its mother where it was bred and check that the facilities are clean and the litter appears alert and healthy. A kitten should be sociable and alert with bright eyes and no visible health problems. You should be able to handle the kittens freely under supervision. Don’t buy a kitten that is less than 8 weeks old.

If the cat is over 4 months old, check if it has been neutered

Kittens can get pregnant from 4 months of age. Related cats will mate if not neutered. Neutering can reduce the urge for cats to fight and roam. It can also help alleviate some less desirable behaviours, such as smelly spraying. It is not beneficial for a cat to have a season or just one litter.

Ask where the cat came from

If your chosen cat does not originate from the place of purchase, ask about where it did come from, and try to obtain its previous history.

Ideally all cats would be allowed access to outdoors to express their natural behaviour

In built-up areas, there can be a large number of cats, each with a dwindling territory size and many people are choosing to keep their cats inside. In addition, it is recommended that some cats are kept indoors for their own benefit. If cats are kept solely indoors, some additional considerations for their home are recommended. Visit for further advice.

If you already have one or more cats think carefully before getting another

Cats are naturally solitary animals, which means they usually prefer to live alone. If one of your cats has recently died hold off getting another as a “friend”, at least until your existing cat has adjusted, as it may be happier by itself. If you do decide to introduce a new cat to another seek advice from a vet or animal welfare charity on how to do it gradually in a way that minimises the risks of either cat(s) suffering from stress/stress related illness.

Microchip your kitten or cat as this provides a safe and permanent method of identification

This will increase the chance of returning a cat if they go missing or being able to identify a cat if they suffer from an accident.

Common Scams

Kittens being sold with a ‘fake’ mum to make it look like they are in a family home

Check the mum out see if she really is the mum, if it is just from a picture make an effort to visit the seller at his premises and ask to see the mum. WALK AWAY ITS A SCAM

Sellers promising to post or send on medical or pedigree paperwork later

If they dont have the medical records with them WALK AWAY ITS A SCAM

Sellers offering to meet you ‘halfway’ seems generous but they probably just want to stop you knowing where they live or where the kittens have been bred

If they dont want you to visit thier place where the cats are kept then WALK AWAY its a scam they dont want you too see how the mother of place they are kept is

People asking for money for pet couriers or deposits upfront without you even seeing a kitten live, which might not even exist

Its a scam WALK AWAY

Sellers telling you that you can′t see the mum because she′s at the vet, or some other excuse

They dont wany you to see the mum becouse she is probably, in a cage in terrible condition kept just for breeding. Its a scam WALK AWAY

Sellers advertising “pedigree” cats with no evidence that the cat is registered with a Governing body (such as registration papers)

Its a scam WALK AWAY

Sellers saying

Sellers claim that the kitten must be sold that day as they (the seller) are going away on holiday or for a family emergency. This is a tactic to put pressure on the buyer, its a scam WALK AWAY

Many kittens are advertised as “pedigree crosses”

For example, Persian cross and Ragdoll cross. These kittens are usually more expensive than a ‘moggy’ (non-purebred) and less expensive than a pedigree/purebred (a pedigree is purebred or crossbreed cat which is registered with a Governing Body and the ancestry is recorded). One parent of the kitten may or may not be a purebred/pedigree but due to the kittens mixed parentage the kittens are “moggies” (non purebred).